Report on the High Jewellers present at MasterPiece London 2016: Wallace Can, Van Cleef & Arpels, Hemmerle, Grima, Carnet by Michelle Ong, Lalique.

‘Secret’ jewellery bestows on the wearer the joy of being at the centre of an enigmatic universe. This mode of interacting with one’s jewellery is reminiscent of the Renaissance obsession with utilitarian ways of holding one’s secrets close to one’s chest. Alchemical revelations would go under the cloak; the more inconspicuous the vessel, the more plentiful the content. Be it a clever mechanism, priceless gemstones, a clever technique, or a secret aperture, jewels that conceal a secret have been the highlight of haute joaillerie for a long time. This year, with progress in technology and ex- ceptional creativity helping, some designers have set the bar even higher and engineered exceptionally clever designs that do not com- pletely reveal themselves at first sight. As always with ‘secret’ jewellery, only the wearer will be in the know, and can magnanimously decide or not to show the full potential of the jewel or share its tale. After all, the possibility of keeping certain things so confidential that only a few people will know about them is the ultimate luxury in a world where social media makes anything and eve- rything instantly and widely available. So let’s venture into the captivating depth of a few sig- nificant jewels, each with its own secret.

The pinnacle of ‘Secret Jewellery’ resides in secret watches, the marriage between high jewellery and high horlogerie, which was all too fashionable from the 1930s until the 50s. Since then and far from abating, the trend has been kept alive thanks to the high jewellers and their connoisseurs. Every high jewellery and haute horlogerie presentation (e.g. SIHH, Basel World) systematically introduces a se- lection of secret watches with a novelty lid, a precious mechanism or a feat of watchmak- ing, to the world. Haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie come together to engineer a func- tional, yet highly decorative piece, the ulti- mate in versatility. Besides the cross-pollina- tion between the two Métiers d’Art helps push the boundaries of what is feasible, whilst both sides learn from each other. It is complexity meeting fantasy: on one hand a scientific ap- proach, on the other, a highly creative revelry. Of course, time management may not be an important issue when one wears such a prized watch, yet the theory could be that since the wearer will not be able to keep from admir- ing the watch on her wrist, she will never lose track of the time. Either way, we laud the co- nundrum; the fact that timelessness applies to a timepiece.

Nothing in Louis Edouard Le Jeune’s past could have predicted his current career as a jeweller since his family had no connection to this craft. However, with his father being a surgeon and his mother – an actor, the combination of precision and meticulousness as well as creativity and imagination found in his parents’ careers has become uncannily fundamental to Louis Edouard’s approach to jewellery making.

グール・クゥーリーは、彼女の第二弾目のジュエリーコレクション〈ソフト・ディコンストラクション（穏やかな脱構築）〉を発表しました。. 彼女の作品は多くの若いジュエリーデザイナーが好む、見方によればダークな雰囲気に見えるものですが、あまたいるその傾向のデザイナーの中で彼女が最も才能があります。. 彼女のジュエリーには強い哲学と背景が潜んでいるところが特筆すべき点です。. 教育者の家に生まれたグール・クゥーリーは、21歳の時レバノンからニューヨークに渡りました。. 経済学を学び仕事に就くつもりでしたが、渡米まもなく自分がしたいことがデザインであることを確信します。. オスカー・デラレンタで仕事を得て、マーケットの分析や海外向けのブランディングに関わりました。.

It’s late 2016, swanky models party in a private London club. Beaming at camera lenses, the girls radiate joie de vivre as they dance and chat away. However beyond the uniting youth and beau- ty, what strikes most are the sublime pieces of jewellery adorning their silhouettes. Beautifully shot in black and white, this new ad campaign for ‘London Jeweller’ David Morris was shot by Ellen von Unwerth, the acclaimed photographer who revels in capturing femininity through live moments. Besides the choice of black and white is quite radical considering how tantalizing col- oured gemstones are at David Morris, yet the aesthetic decision makes sense as what matters most is how utterly sensual the creations are: it is first and foremost high jewellery as second skin....

オートクチュール・コレクション・バイ・コーヴァ・ジュエルズはコンセプチュアルなジュエリー。. 体を基礎にして作られた彫刻のようです。. 「頭脳に訴えかけるジュエリー」とロシア生まれの創業者カティエ・コーヴァは言います。. 2015年よりコーヴァは鍛造をベースに知的ジュエリーの位置づけで制作に取り組み、2016年6月パリのクチュール・ウィークで初めてオートクチュールジュエリーを発表しました。. 大胆で知性にあふれた作風は、編集者たちの関心を引き、好印象を築き上げました。. カティエ・コーヴァは非常に才能のあるジュエリーデザイナーです。. デザインは彫刻的で型破り。. 6本の指につけるリングは彼女の思想を表しています。.

Paris has always inspired people with artistic endeavours. However, the interpretation of its other name as La Ville Lumière could not be better rendered than through jewellery, with its emphasis on radiance, brilliance and the use of sculptural settings. The architectural formality of the French capital, in part thanks to Georges-Eugène Haussmann and Gustave Eiffel, lends itself as inspiration for jewellery design with its grid-like patterns and symmetrical structures.

ブッダ・ママは、アメリカのジュエリーブランド。. デザインとバックグランドのストーリーに独自のスピリチュアルな考えを持っています。. その名の通り、仏陀の教えや東洋の哲学に強く影響されていることが窺えますが、とはいえ、あくまでもジュエリーブランドであり、信仰の有無にかかわらず支持されています。. コレクションには吉兆、ランプ、曼荼羅、ハバナの夜といった名が付いています。. ポジティブなエネルギー、あるいは官能的な時間をイメージさせ、それぞれのコンセプトと共に特徴のあるデザインパターンがあります。. 全体に博愛のような感覚も込められています。. ネイティブ・アメリカンの住居に用いる幾何学的な文様への敬意、ボヘミアンでグラマラスな要素、その他、クロス、スター、目、手など宇宙的で精神性を含むシンボルを取り込み、それらはお守りの意味合いも含んでいます。.

Ralph Masri revels in fusing the decorative power of traditional costume jewellery with the precious contemporary elegance of fine jewellery. Confirming his love for architecture and passion shapes, he delves into a historical interpretation of collections (Phoenician Script, Sacred Windows or Arabesque Deco) that are journeys through bygone cultures and symbolic motifswithin his collections

The market for men’s jewellery is rapidly expanding, and sadly not always for the best. So let’s rejoice when originality, quality and a dash of cool combine. The ravishing cufflinks of Begüm Khan have already taken the world by storm. A discreet ascent allowing the brand to nurture its luxury positioning. Meet the young Turkish designer behind it all, Begüm Kıroğlu, the woman who may just know the way to a man’s heart better than men do.

Issue 21

For the most discerning collectors and trendsetters, more than thirty-five contemporary masters of exquisitely crafted precious jewelry This inspirational book features more than thirty-five master jewelry designers, hailing from across the globe. They represent a wide variety of visions and techniques, from Aida Bergsen’s flora- and fauna-inspired designs, and Anabela Chan’s exquisitely detailed laser-cut brooches of white gold and platinum with iridescent diamonds and natural gray pearls, to Elie Top’s yellow gold spheres that are a feat of mathematical precision and ingenuity. Red-carpet customers and fans include Beyoncé, Gwyneth Paltrow, Salma Hayek, Madonna, and Michelle Obama. Design expert Olivier Dupon uses his keen eye for talent and creative flair to select the most exciting of today’s high-end jewelry designers working around the globe. Each designer is introduced by a brief biography, and hundreds of images showcase a broad range of “wearable art.” Complete with an introduction, a useful glossary, and notes of designers’ websites (some work by appointment only), this is the perfect, curated resource for both aficionados and professionals who seek to be in the know concerning the most visionary practitioners working in the field of fine jewelry today. 500 illustrations in color

シンガポールに拠点を置くこのブランドは、魅惑的なカットをほどこした希少な天然石をふんだんに用いた眩しいほどの強い輝きと、大胆でウルトラ・フェミニンなデザインが特徴です。. 毎年2〜3のコレクションの他、コレクションに含まれない単独のものを発表しています。. 「私は自然の美の崇拝者であり、処理された宝石やシンセティックストーンは使わないようにしていますが、今日、無処理の宝石を探すのは難しい。. しかしエメラルドなら、含浸処理（色をきれいに見せるために無色の油や樹脂を含ませる技術）による油分が少ないものを選んでいます」とデザイナー、マイケル・コーさん。. 彼の作品はどれも細部が複雑です。. 職人の巧みの技は、宝石を抱擁するかのように包み込み、一見もろそうなほど繊細な細工は、透明感のある優美な表情を生み出しています。.

ベガム・カーンの魅惑的なカフリンクスは、世界のメンズジュエリーの市場を嵐のごとく制覇した感があります。. 「必要は発明の母」ということわざがありますが、メンズファッションに不可欠なアイテムに絞り込んだこのブランドは、スタート時点から地道にラグジュアリーブランドのポジションへ上り詰めました。. トルコでは花嫁と花婿の家族は、花嫁にジュエリーを贈るという習慣があります。. 自分の弟の結婚式に際して、ジュエリーデザイナーのベガム・キログルは、花嫁のためのジュエリーを探しながら、花婿にもジュエリーをプレゼントしたいと思いました。. 彼女の弟は喜び、ベガムはカフリンクスを探し始めました。. 「タイムレスに付けられるカフリンクスを探していました。.

R.Y.M Jewelry debuted in 2016 with two defining collections : the Diamond Digit collection and the Purely Portemanteau. However, Reem Mobassaleh now based in Dubai but a globetrotter who was born in London and raised in the U.S. started making jewelry since 2009 but truly developped a concept 2 years back.